Number 2600: Around Epinions - How Can Erie Be Dreary When It Has Presque Isle?

I live in Erie, PA, a city that tends to be rather unappreciated by its residents. It’s the fourth-largest city in Pennsylvania, but it has a hometown feel nonetheless. Hence, we kind of get the best of both worlds here. Major attractions include the small but pleasant Erie Zoo; the humble amusement park Waldameer, which you can peruse for free, buying ride tickets as desired; the Millcreek Mall, which recently turned up on a list of the ten best shopping centers in America; the Warner Theater and Civic Center, where I’ve seen such acts as Celtic Thunder, Art Garfunkel, James Taylor, Gordon Lightfoot, the Irish Rovers, Clay Aiken and the Harlem Globetrotters; and the recently built casino. But Erie’s proudest feature has to be Presque Isle, the peninsula jutting out into Lake Erie, and so I’m making that the subject of my 2600th post here on Epinions.

Presque Isle State Park is 3200 acres, and it’s about a 13-mile drive all the way around the peninsula. There’s no admission fee to enter the park or the Tom Ridge Environmental Center, the state-of-the-art nature center that has stood at the entrance to the peninsula for about four years. Within the park are numerous nature trails, as well as a visitors’ center; some pavilions; the acclaimed ice cream shop Sara’s; and Perry Monument, which stands in tribute to Oliver Hazard “Don’t Give Up the Ship!” Perry, the Naval hero from the Battle of Lake Erie in the War of 1812. You can also see the lighthouse, though only once have I actually seen it illuminated.

Woodsy areas abound on Presque Isle. When we go there with the intention of walking rather than simply taking a drive, I’m most inclined to take those trails that lead through the woods, since that is where one is likeliest to spot wildlife. Birds are especially plentiful on the peninsula. Our favorite to spot is the majestic Great Blue Heron, though we most often see those when we take the canoe out into the lagoon early in the morning. Last year, we had the rare opportunity to see a nesting pair of Least Bitterns. Go in the spring, and you’ll find yourself practically tripping over geese wherever you go.

It’s rare to get around the peninsula without spotting a rabbit or two, and deer have been known to make an appearance. We’ve seen foxes and beavers, and there have long been rumors of coyotes, though we’ve never been lucky enough to see one ourselves. Snapping turtles are fairly common, while any part of the lagoon featuring a large log is a likely sunning spot for smaller turtles. It’s especially fun to come upon these in the canoe; they usually stay put until the canoe comes almost within arm’s reach, so it’s easy to get a lot of fantastic photographs. Then, en masse, they’ll all slip into the water. Once we’ve passed by, they’ll usually resurface within minutes.

The peninsula is usually pretty crowded when we go, except in the early morning, when we only tend to bump into the odd boater or fisherman. During the day, the paths are full of bikers and roller bladers as well as dog-walkers; though it’s easy to get lost in the beauty of the landscape, it’s important to be aware of one’s surroundings lest you get run over or entangled. If you’re going into the woods, be careful to keep as covered up as possible, as there are ticks lurking, and some are pretty nasty. Inspect yourself and especially your dog afterward for ticks. If they’re big enough to be easily visible, they’re probably not a major concern, but you still want to get rid of them quickly.

Of course, most people, particularly visitors to Erie, go to the peninsula with an eye for the beach. There are several different beaches open to visitors. Beach Six is probably the most popular; it includes concessions, restrooms and changing rooms as well as a volleyball court, and during the summer, it’s usually packed. Other popular beaches include Beach One, Barracks Beach and Beaches Seven through Eleven. In addition to swimming, sandcastle-building and other typical beach activities, many people fly kites on the beach, particularly during the off-season. Sometimes we park and simply watch the kites for half an hour or so. There are also several picnic tables so that families can enjoy lunch without worrying too much about getting sand in their food.

A trip to Presque Isle doesn’t have to cost anything, but there are some activities available for those willing to pay a bit extra. One that is highly recommended is the scenic boat tour, which takes visitors around the bay, with a tour guide to point out areas of interest. If your familiarity with Erie is limited, this is a great way to get acquainted with some of its major features. Meanwhile, a pontoon ride around the lagoons is free and also very enjoyable.  You might also want to rent one of the surreys, pedal-operated vehicles that are great for families who want to see the peninsula from an unusual perspective. Meanwhile, if you’re a local, you can reserve the pavilions for events. My brothers had their graduation parties in outdoor pavilions, while mine was indoors - which turned out to be a very good thing since we had rain the entire day. It was roomy inside, and we were situated right near a marshy area from which a loon called to us all afternoon.

Presque Isle is most popular during the summer, and its biggest weekend is Discover Presque Isle, which usually takes place in July. At that time, crafters, food vendors and all sorts of local organizations set up shop along the peninsula for a weekend full of activities that include lighthouse tours and sand sculpture contests. Presque Isle is also a popular site for charitable walks and runs, such as the March of Dimes and the CROP Walk, both of which I’ve participated in. The length of the walk makes you realize just how big the peninsula really is.

It can also be fun to visit in the winter, even though you probably won’t be doing any swimming. It’s fun to ramble along the trails during this time because you’re almost certain to see some animal tracks. If it’s been cold enough long enough, you might venture out onto the bay. Erie usually gets a lot of snow, and the ice sometimes is pretty thick. I’ve walked across the bay before, and it’s a pretty neat experience. Ice fisherman are also a common sight, and many people enjoy snowshoeing or cross-country skiing. Meanwhile, check out the beach and you’ll probably be treated to ice dunes, stark and ominous against the gray sky. There’s something stirringly desolate about the peninsula in late winter, as captured in the post-apocalyptic movie The Road, which was filmed in part on Presque Isle.

If you ever have the opportunity to visit Erie, make sure you stop by Presque Isle. It’s a wonderful place to spend the day. And if you live here, take a drive to the peninsula some afternoon and experience a resurgence of civic pride.